This is a way good recipe! But it feeds a lot so used it with company.
4-5 garlic cloves, finely minced or crushed
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt (I used sea salt)
1/2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pork tenderloins (about 1 1/4 pounds each)
2 tablespoons canola oil (if preparing in the oven)
Stir together garlic, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a small bowl. Rub the paste all over the pork. Marinate overnight for best results.
Grill preparation:
Sear the tenderloins on all sides, then grill for about 20-30 mins rotating every 10 mins until the internal temperature is 160 degrees. Try to let it rest before slicing (10 mins).
Oven preparation:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Heat canola oil in a large, heavy saute pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, add pork, and brown all over, about 4 mins.
Transfer pan to oven (I put it on a different pan because my pan won't go into the oven). Roast pork, turning occasionally, until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees, about 20 mins. transfer pork to a cutting board and try to let it rest for 10 mins before slicing.
Website Reference
Monday, August 29, 2011
Chewy No-Bake Cookies and Cream Treats
This is a way easy recipe and really good!!
You will need:
16 oz bag of oreo cookies
1 bag of marshmellows (I used the big kind)
4 tbsp of butter
8 X 8 pan
tin foil
You smash the cookies in your food processor until small chunks (don't smash too much). Microwave your marshmellows and butter for 1 1/2-2 mins. Line your pan with the tin foil. Mix the cookies and marshmellows together quickly. The cookies will melt a little. Pour into the pan. I used Pam spray on my hands to smash it down into the pan so it wouldn't stick to my hands. Let it sit for 10-15 mins in the pan to shape. Pull out on tin foil. Cut up and enjoy!
Website Reference
You will need:
16 oz bag of oreo cookies
1 bag of marshmellows (I used the big kind)
4 tbsp of butter
8 X 8 pan
tin foil
You smash the cookies in your food processor until small chunks (don't smash too much). Microwave your marshmellows and butter for 1 1/2-2 mins. Line your pan with the tin foil. Mix the cookies and marshmellows together quickly. The cookies will melt a little. Pour into the pan. I used Pam spray on my hands to smash it down into the pan so it wouldn't stick to my hands. Let it sit for 10-15 mins in the pan to shape. Pull out on tin foil. Cut up and enjoy!
Website Reference
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Diaper Covers
Supplies Needed: 1/3-1/2 yard of fabric (cotton, linen, knit, satin, corduroy,...)
You really don't need that entire amount of fabric, in fact the largest diaper size needs (2) 16 X 20 inch rectangles. But, in case you're buying yardage of fabric at the store, 1/3 to 1/2 yard will keep you in the safe zone. Best idea: measure the pattern size you're using and figure out exactly how much you need/want. It's never a bad idea to have extra fabric. Then you can make 2 pairs and keep on on hand for a baby shower!
1/4 '' elastic for the legs (any kind)-see pattern 3/8 '' or 1/2 '' elastic for waist (any kind)- see pattern
Cutting:
Print a copy of each pattern page
Trace the diaper sizes you need onto blank sheets of paper so you have patterns for various sizes. This saves on printing and plus, it's easier to reference the original pattern when you need to.
Label your patterns with appropriate info so you don't mix-up the sizes. If you make changes to the sizing or with the elastic, note that on the pattern along with the date you made it, or what fabric you used, or whatever info will help you out the next time around.
Fold your fabric in half, lay the pattern piece on the FOLD (where marked) and cut out ONE for each pattern piece:
Okay,
With RIGHT sides of your fabric together, sew the front and back pieces together. Line up the sides and sew down both sides. Line up the bottoms and sew that together too, in the places marked below:
Serge off your seams, do a zigzag stitch, or leave them raw (serging and zigzagging makes your seams stronger and keeps them from fraying over time).
Serge the top of your waistband, all the way around.
If you don't have a serger, iron the waist band over 1/4 inch, just as you did for the leg holes.
Iron out all of your seams:
Then iron casings for the leg holes and the waistband. Iron the LEGS over 1/2 inch. Though we're using 1/4 inch elastic for the legs, it's good to give yourself a 1/2 inch casing. This will make the project easier, the safety pins will go through better and thus, your life will be happier.
Your leg holes should look like this.
Okay, iron the waistband over 3/4 of an inch to create a casing. Note: I prefer using 3/8 or 1/2 inch elastic in my waistband; it just looks better to me. This is why the casing is 3/4 inch wide. If you want to keep it simpler, make your casing 1/2 inch wide and use 1/4 inch elastic in the waistband just as you did with the legs. Either way works fine.
Stitch down your casings in the waist and in the leg holes. MAKE SURE you leave a small opening in each so you can get your elastic in and out.
I use pins to mark a Start and Stop point, so I don't forget to leave a hole:
Sewing the leg casings can seem tricky because your creative mind will tell you to make it as smooth and beautiful as possible. IGNORE your gut! It will (almost) never happen. Because the legs are cut on a curve, it's near impossible to fold the edge over smoothly without trimming the edge in (which you don't want to do here) or using bias tape (which has more "give" and is meant for curves). But with a diaper cover it really doesn't matter because the leg holes will be gathered and you'll never notice the tiny imperfections in your seam. So..start sewing from your Start point:
And, without being overly obsessed about it, use your left hand to push and pull and to keep the fabric as smooth as you can:
Don't stress over it but do your best to keep a 1/2 inch casing all the way around. This is another reason we made the casing a 1/2 inch instead of a 1/4 inch. More room for error!
When you're done, your legs should look like this:
Now add your elastic.
Zigzag stitch the elastic ends together.
Do Not sew the leg casings closed til you look at the two legs together.
If both legs look even, sew the casings closed with a normal stitch.
Follow the same steps and string elastic through the waistband.
That's it!
Website Reference
You really don't need that entire amount of fabric, in fact the largest diaper size needs (2) 16 X 20 inch rectangles. But, in case you're buying yardage of fabric at the store, 1/3 to 1/2 yard will keep you in the safe zone. Best idea: measure the pattern size you're using and figure out exactly how much you need/want. It's never a bad idea to have extra fabric. Then you can make 2 pairs and keep on on hand for a baby shower!
1/4 '' elastic for the legs (any kind)-see pattern 3/8 '' or 1/2 '' elastic for waist (any kind)- see pattern
Cutting:
Print a copy of each pattern page
Trace the diaper sizes you need onto blank sheets of paper so you have patterns for various sizes. This saves on printing and plus, it's easier to reference the original pattern when you need to.
Label your patterns with appropriate info so you don't mix-up the sizes. If you make changes to the sizing or with the elastic, note that on the pattern along with the date you made it, or what fabric you used, or whatever info will help you out the next time around.
Fold your fabric in half, lay the pattern piece on the FOLD (where marked) and cut out ONE for each pattern piece:
Okay,
With RIGHT sides of your fabric together, sew the front and back pieces together. Line up the sides and sew down both sides. Line up the bottoms and sew that together too, in the places marked below:
Serge off your seams, do a zigzag stitch, or leave them raw (serging and zigzagging makes your seams stronger and keeps them from fraying over time).
Serge the top of your waistband, all the way around.
If you don't have a serger, iron the waist band over 1/4 inch, just as you did for the leg holes.
Iron out all of your seams:
Then iron casings for the leg holes and the waistband. Iron the LEGS over 1/2 inch. Though we're using 1/4 inch elastic for the legs, it's good to give yourself a 1/2 inch casing. This will make the project easier, the safety pins will go through better and thus, your life will be happier.
Your leg holes should look like this.
Okay, iron the waistband over 3/4 of an inch to create a casing. Note: I prefer using 3/8 or 1/2 inch elastic in my waistband; it just looks better to me. This is why the casing is 3/4 inch wide. If you want to keep it simpler, make your casing 1/2 inch wide and use 1/4 inch elastic in the waistband just as you did with the legs. Either way works fine.
Stitch down your casings in the waist and in the leg holes. MAKE SURE you leave a small opening in each so you can get your elastic in and out.
I use pins to mark a Start and Stop point, so I don't forget to leave a hole:
Sewing the leg casings can seem tricky because your creative mind will tell you to make it as smooth and beautiful as possible. IGNORE your gut! It will (almost) never happen. Because the legs are cut on a curve, it's near impossible to fold the edge over smoothly without trimming the edge in (which you don't want to do here) or using bias tape (which has more "give" and is meant for curves). But with a diaper cover it really doesn't matter because the leg holes will be gathered and you'll never notice the tiny imperfections in your seam. So..start sewing from your Start point:
And, without being overly obsessed about it, use your left hand to push and pull and to keep the fabric as smooth as you can:
Don't stress over it but do your best to keep a 1/2 inch casing all the way around. This is another reason we made the casing a 1/2 inch instead of a 1/4 inch. More room for error!
When you're done, your legs should look like this:
Now add your elastic.
Zigzag stitch the elastic ends together.
Do Not sew the leg casings closed til you look at the two legs together.
If both legs look even, sew the casings closed with a normal stitch.
Follow the same steps and string elastic through the waistband.
That's it!
Website Reference
Friday, July 15, 2011
Peanut Butter Cookies
1 cup crisco
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 tsp baking soda
Mix together well.
Add 1 1/2 -2 c flour. Add the flour slowly and stir it slowly. Make sure it is mixed well. You can't over mix. Put on pan and smash with fork.
Cook at 375 for 8 min max.
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 tsp baking soda
Mix together well.
Add 1 1/2 -2 c flour. Add the flour slowly and stir it slowly. Make sure it is mixed well. You can't over mix. Put on pan and smash with fork.
Cook at 375 for 8 min max.
Friday, July 8, 2011
How to Make a Ruffle
FYI: Some people have a ruffle foot for their machines. I don't, so this is how you get by without one.To make a decently "full" ruffle, you typically need 2 times the length of what you'll be attaching it to, although you can get away with 1.5 times.
Take your strip of fabric, and sew along the top with your machine's longest stitch length. Don't backstitch and leave a long tail of thread at both ends. (Of course, on your actual project you wouldn't be lazy like me...you would hem the edges of your fabric strip.)
Sew another line, parallel to the first. (I just line up my presser foot with the first line to make it easy.) Again, don't backstitch and leave a long tail of thread.
After your two lines are sewn, gently tug at the bottom (bobbin) thread in the tails, one at a time. Your fabric should start to gather, creating a ruffle.
Spread the gathering out evenly towards the center as you go. Be careful not to pull too hard, and make sure you spread out the gathered fabric, otherwise you may break your thread.
And there you go...a ruffle!
Website Reference
Take your strip of fabric, and sew along the top with your machine's longest stitch length. Don't backstitch and leave a long tail of thread at both ends. (Of course, on your actual project you wouldn't be lazy like me...you would hem the edges of your fabric strip.)
Sew another line, parallel to the first. (I just line up my presser foot with the first line to make it easy.) Again, don't backstitch and leave a long tail of thread.
After your two lines are sewn, gently tug at the bottom (bobbin) thread in the tails, one at a time. Your fabric should start to gather, creating a ruffle.
Spread the gathering out evenly towards the center as you go. Be careful not to pull too hard, and make sure you spread out the gathered fabric, otherwise you may break your thread.
And there you go...a ruffle!
Website Reference
Monday, June 27, 2011
Pillow Case Dresses
1. Using a new or gently used pillowcase, cut along the top of the pillowcase (where it is sewed together--opposite of the open end). This will become the top of the dress.
2. Lay the pillow case flat and measure J-shaped armholes at the top corners (3 to 4"X 3 to 4"-depending upon how big the pillowcase is--king sized for bigger girls, etc.)
3. Make casing by turning the top of the cut edge under ¼ “ and then another ¼”. Iron in place—it needs to be wide enough so that 1/4" to 1/2" wide elastic pieces will slide through easily. Sew close to the edge. Repeat this step for the back of the dress. You should now have a casing on both sides at the top of each side of the pillowcase.
4. Cut 2 pieces of ¼” or ½” elastic, each 7 inches long. Attach a safety pin to one end of one of the cut pieces of elastic and pull it through the casing using caution not to pull it too far. Sew across each end of the casing to hold the elastic in place. Repeat this step for the other side. You should now have a gathered top on both the front and back of the dress.
(Make sure you remove the safety pin).
Using double-fold bias tape, cut 2 pieces approximately 32-34”long. These will bind the armholes and become the ties at the shoulders, so they should be long enough to tie a bow at the top.
5. Fold one tie in half to find the center and line it up with the center of the armhole--then work outward from there to both sides. Pin the open ends of the bias tape over the raw edges of the armhole--the ties will extend evenly over each top.
*Special Note on the ties: Packaged bias tape is folded not quite in half lengthwise. When you get ready to sew it on make sure the narrower half of the tape faces up. That way you will be sure you are always catching the underside of the tape, even around the curves. Beginners should sew one side at a time--open up the bias tape and attach to armhole--then fold it over and sew again--this will insure that the ties are attached properly with no gaps.
6. Fold the raw edges of the ends of the bias tape inside and when you sew along the tape you will catch those also.
7. Tie your ties and your dress is finished!
Website Reference
2. Lay the pillow case flat and measure J-shaped armholes at the top corners (3 to 4"X 3 to 4"-depending upon how big the pillowcase is--king sized for bigger girls, etc.)
3. Make casing by turning the top of the cut edge under ¼ “ and then another ¼”. Iron in place—it needs to be wide enough so that 1/4" to 1/2" wide elastic pieces will slide through easily. Sew close to the edge. Repeat this step for the back of the dress. You should now have a casing on both sides at the top of each side of the pillowcase.
4. Cut 2 pieces of ¼” or ½” elastic, each 7 inches long. Attach a safety pin to one end of one of the cut pieces of elastic and pull it through the casing using caution not to pull it too far. Sew across each end of the casing to hold the elastic in place. Repeat this step for the other side. You should now have a gathered top on both the front and back of the dress.
(Make sure you remove the safety pin).
Using double-fold bias tape, cut 2 pieces approximately 32-34”long. These will bind the armholes and become the ties at the shoulders, so they should be long enough to tie a bow at the top.
5. Fold one tie in half to find the center and line it up with the center of the armhole--then work outward from there to both sides. Pin the open ends of the bias tape over the raw edges of the armhole--the ties will extend evenly over each top.
*Special Note on the ties: Packaged bias tape is folded not quite in half lengthwise. When you get ready to sew it on make sure the narrower half of the tape faces up. That way you will be sure you are always catching the underside of the tape, even around the curves. Beginners should sew one side at a time--open up the bias tape and attach to armhole--then fold it over and sew again--this will insure that the ties are attached properly with no gaps.
6. Fold the raw edges of the ends of the bias tape inside and when you sew along the tape you will catch those also.
7. Tie your ties and your dress is finished!
Website Reference
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Peanut Butter S'more Turnovers
1 box Puff Pastry (2 sheets), thawed
3 whole graham crackers, gently broken into fourths
9 small milk chocolate bars (I used Hershey's .49 oz. bars)
1/2 cup creamy peanut buttersmall bowl of water
1 egg whisked with 1 Tablespoon water (to make egg wash)
1/2 cup jarred Marshmallow Creme (or Fluff)
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line baking sheet with parchment paper or spray with nonstick spray.
2. Lay Puff Pastry on cutting board. Working with one sheet of Puff Pastry at a time, cut on three folds, creating 3 rectangles (about 3" x 10" each). Cut each 3 x 10 rectangle in half. You'll have 6 pieces to work with for each sheet of Puff Pastry.
3. Assemble turnovers: Lay graham cracker on 1/2 of each square, top with chocolate that has been cut down to match the length of the graham cracker. Scoop a scant 1 Tablespoon peanut butter on top of each chocolate bar.
4. Working with one turnover at a time, wet edges of Puff Pastry and fold (over) in half to meet opposite edges. Gently push edges together to stick; use fork to seal edges together and create ridged pattern. Repeat with each turnover until all are sealed up. Gently move sealed turnovers to baking sheet with a small spatula. (At this point, the turnovers may be refrigerated for up to an hour before baking- cover baking sheet with plastic wrap- when ready to bake, remove from refrigerator and continue with instructions).
5. Brush turnovers lightly with egg wash, then use a sharp knife to cut two small slits into the top of each turnover.
6. Bake 15 minutes, or until turnovers are puffed and golden. Remove from oven. Let cool for 5 minutes. Scoop marshmallow creme into a zip baggie (don't zip). Microwave for 8 seconds to soften. Zip bag and snip a small piece off of the corner of the bag. Drizzle marshmallow onto the top of each turnover. Serve immediately.
Tips:
*Use any sort of chocolate that sounds good to you. Just cut it down or break it into pieces that fit on top of a 1/4 of a whole graham cracker. (Leftover mini Hershey's bars from Halloween work great!)*I tested this recipe with real marshmallows and they didn't work as well as the marshmallow creme.*This recipe can be easily cut in half- just thaw out one sheet of Puff Pastry.*These are best served while warm & gooey, but they can certainly be eaten any time!
Website Reference
3 whole graham crackers, gently broken into fourths
9 small milk chocolate bars (I used Hershey's .49 oz. bars)
1/2 cup creamy peanut buttersmall bowl of water
1 egg whisked with 1 Tablespoon water (to make egg wash)
1/2 cup jarred Marshmallow Creme (or Fluff)
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line baking sheet with parchment paper or spray with nonstick spray.
2. Lay Puff Pastry on cutting board. Working with one sheet of Puff Pastry at a time, cut on three folds, creating 3 rectangles (about 3" x 10" each). Cut each 3 x 10 rectangle in half. You'll have 6 pieces to work with for each sheet of Puff Pastry.
3. Assemble turnovers: Lay graham cracker on 1/2 of each square, top with chocolate that has been cut down to match the length of the graham cracker. Scoop a scant 1 Tablespoon peanut butter on top of each chocolate bar.
4. Working with one turnover at a time, wet edges of Puff Pastry and fold (over) in half to meet opposite edges. Gently push edges together to stick; use fork to seal edges together and create ridged pattern. Repeat with each turnover until all are sealed up. Gently move sealed turnovers to baking sheet with a small spatula. (At this point, the turnovers may be refrigerated for up to an hour before baking- cover baking sheet with plastic wrap- when ready to bake, remove from refrigerator and continue with instructions).
5. Brush turnovers lightly with egg wash, then use a sharp knife to cut two small slits into the top of each turnover.
6. Bake 15 minutes, or until turnovers are puffed and golden. Remove from oven. Let cool for 5 minutes. Scoop marshmallow creme into a zip baggie (don't zip). Microwave for 8 seconds to soften. Zip bag and snip a small piece off of the corner of the bag. Drizzle marshmallow onto the top of each turnover. Serve immediately.
Tips:
*Use any sort of chocolate that sounds good to you. Just cut it down or break it into pieces that fit on top of a 1/4 of a whole graham cracker. (Leftover mini Hershey's bars from Halloween work great!)*I tested this recipe with real marshmallows and they didn't work as well as the marshmallow creme.*This recipe can be easily cut in half- just thaw out one sheet of Puff Pastry.*These are best served while warm & gooey, but they can certainly be eaten any time!
Website Reference
Monday, June 6, 2011
Baby Car Seat Covers
Measure the car seat from top to bottom, and then from the left to the right side. Add 10 inches for each measurement, since the cover is going to wrap around the seat a bit. This way you will have enough fabric to completely cover the car seat. When you purchase the fabric, be sure to multiply the amount of fabric you need by 2, because you are going to double up the fabric for the car seat.
Choose a fabric and purchase the amount you need according to the measurements you took. It won't hurt to have a little extra. A sturdy cotton fabric is a good choice because the material is breathable. Cotton is also easy to wash---just be sure to use a low dryer setting to avoid shrinking it too much. It may be a good idea to prewash the fabric before you sew it so it will preshrink.
Make your own pattern for the car seat. Lay a piece of transparent paper or tissue on a flat surface. Using a meter stick or tape measure, measure out the length of the car seat. Don't forget to add the 10 inches, 5 inches extra on top, and 5 extra on bottom. Make a pencil mark on the paper at the top and bottom of the measurements.
Measure and mark the width, adding the extra 5 inches to each side. Connect the marks around the paper by drawing a circle or oval; your car-seat shape will determine the shape of the pattern. Cut out the pattern carefully.
Fold your fabric in half and pin the edges to keep the fabric from shifting. Lay the pattern on top of the fabric and pin the pattern to the fabric. Carefully cut the fabric in the shape of the pattern, then remove the pattern.
Turn the two pieces of fabric around so that the outer sides are touching each other. Make sure they are even around the sides, then pin the pieces together.
Use a sewing machine to sew three-quarters of the car-seat cover. Then turn the cover inside out to where the correct sides are facing out again. Continue to sew the car seat up, but leave a 1-inch hole.
Make a casing around the edge of the cover. Mark a 1/2- to 1-inch section all the way around the cover. Pin together and sew a seam around the car-seat cover. Be sure to leave a hole in the casing where you left the 1-inch hole when sewing the cover together.
Pin a very large safety pin on one end of your elastic. Place the safety pin inside the 1-inch hole you left open, and "walk" the pin around the casing, pulling the elastic around the casing. Take the safety pin off and apply the plastic clip to the ends of the elastic. You should be able to press on the clip button and pull the elastic so that the car-seat cover tightens or loosens.
Lay the cover in the car seat. Wrap the sides around the car seat and test it by tightening the elastic.
Make slits in the cover to allow the car-seat straps to get through. With the cover lying in the car seat, take a pencil or other marking tool and make a small mark wherever a car-seat strap rests beneath the cover. Take the cover off and measure the length of the car-seat strap slits.
Mark the same measurement on the car-seat cover. Gently slice the fabric open with a very sharp knife or cutting tool. Hand-sew the edges to prevent fraying.
Website Reference
Choose a fabric and purchase the amount you need according to the measurements you took. It won't hurt to have a little extra. A sturdy cotton fabric is a good choice because the material is breathable. Cotton is also easy to wash---just be sure to use a low dryer setting to avoid shrinking it too much. It may be a good idea to prewash the fabric before you sew it so it will preshrink.
Make your own pattern for the car seat. Lay a piece of transparent paper or tissue on a flat surface. Using a meter stick or tape measure, measure out the length of the car seat. Don't forget to add the 10 inches, 5 inches extra on top, and 5 extra on bottom. Make a pencil mark on the paper at the top and bottom of the measurements.
Measure and mark the width, adding the extra 5 inches to each side. Connect the marks around the paper by drawing a circle or oval; your car-seat shape will determine the shape of the pattern. Cut out the pattern carefully.
Fold your fabric in half and pin the edges to keep the fabric from shifting. Lay the pattern on top of the fabric and pin the pattern to the fabric. Carefully cut the fabric in the shape of the pattern, then remove the pattern.
Turn the two pieces of fabric around so that the outer sides are touching each other. Make sure they are even around the sides, then pin the pieces together.
Use a sewing machine to sew three-quarters of the car-seat cover. Then turn the cover inside out to where the correct sides are facing out again. Continue to sew the car seat up, but leave a 1-inch hole.
Make a casing around the edge of the cover. Mark a 1/2- to 1-inch section all the way around the cover. Pin together and sew a seam around the car-seat cover. Be sure to leave a hole in the casing where you left the 1-inch hole when sewing the cover together.
Pin a very large safety pin on one end of your elastic. Place the safety pin inside the 1-inch hole you left open, and "walk" the pin around the casing, pulling the elastic around the casing. Take the safety pin off and apply the plastic clip to the ends of the elastic. You should be able to press on the clip button and pull the elastic so that the car-seat cover tightens or loosens.
Lay the cover in the car seat. Wrap the sides around the car seat and test it by tightening the elastic.
Make slits in the cover to allow the car-seat straps to get through. With the cover lying in the car seat, take a pencil or other marking tool and make a small mark wherever a car-seat strap rests beneath the cover. Take the cover off and measure the length of the car-seat strap slits.
Mark the same measurement on the car-seat cover. Gently slice the fabric open with a very sharp knife or cutting tool. Hand-sew the edges to prevent fraying.
Website Reference
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Fabric Flowers
You'll need to cut 4 graduated sizes of a synthetic satin. I upcycled a pair of polyester pants in a bright and shiny fuschia. I love the idea of upcycling clothing!
They don't have to be perfect circles but do the best you can.
Use a steady flame and be careful not to get burned.
Take your circle shiny side facing the flame and let the flames tip, kiss the edge of the fabric. You will see that as it heats, the edge will melt. Let the flame heat the fabric just inside that edge to gently encourage it to turn inward.
Once you've finished all of your pieces you'll have a nice stacked set of petals.
Pick a pretty button, I wanted one with more sparkle but couldn't find one in my stash. You could even handstich these little circles together and put a drop of hot glue in the center and sprinkle with glass beads. Just do what you think you'll like most.
Cut your petals from felt and using upholstery or silk thread, stitch all the pieces together onto your accessory. I'm thinking headbands, hats, belts, and even shoes. I might have to make a set to dress up a pair of old heels. The end result is so much more beautiful in person.
Website Reference
They don't have to be perfect circles but do the best you can.
Use a steady flame and be careful not to get burned.
Take your circle shiny side facing the flame and let the flames tip, kiss the edge of the fabric. You will see that as it heats, the edge will melt. Let the flame heat the fabric just inside that edge to gently encourage it to turn inward.
Once you've finished all of your pieces you'll have a nice stacked set of petals.
Pick a pretty button, I wanted one with more sparkle but couldn't find one in my stash. You could even handstich these little circles together and put a drop of hot glue in the center and sprinkle with glass beads. Just do what you think you'll like most.
Cut your petals from felt and using upholstery or silk thread, stitch all the pieces together onto your accessory. I'm thinking headbands, hats, belts, and even shoes. I might have to make a set to dress up a pair of old heels. The end result is so much more beautiful in person.
Website Reference
Monday, May 23, 2011
Homemade Pretzels
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 package (1/4 ounce) quick-rise yeast
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1-1/2 cups warm water (120° to 130°)
1 egg, beaten
Coarse salt
In a large bowl, combine 2 cups flour, sugar, yeast, and salt. Add water. Beat just until moistened. Stir in enough remaining flour to form a soft dough.
Turn onto a floured surface; knead until smooth and elastic, about 4-6 minutes (I just did this in my Kitchenaid). Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Divide dough into 16 equal portions; roll each into a 15-in. rope. Cover and let rest 10 minutes longer.
Twist into pretzel shapes. Place on greased baking sheets; brush with egg. Bake at 350° for 15 minutes. Brush again with egg; sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake 10-13 minutes longer or until golden brown. Remove to wire racks. Serve pretzels warm with dip. Yield: 16 pretzels.
1 tablespoon sugar
1 package (1/4 ounce) quick-rise yeast
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1-1/2 cups warm water (120° to 130°)
1 egg, beaten
Coarse salt
In a large bowl, combine 2 cups flour, sugar, yeast, and salt. Add water. Beat just until moistened. Stir in enough remaining flour to form a soft dough.
Turn onto a floured surface; knead until smooth and elastic, about 4-6 minutes (I just did this in my Kitchenaid). Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Divide dough into 16 equal portions; roll each into a 15-in. rope. Cover and let rest 10 minutes longer.
Twist into pretzel shapes. Place on greased baking sheets; brush with egg. Bake at 350° for 15 minutes. Brush again with egg; sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake 10-13 minutes longer or until golden brown. Remove to wire racks. Serve pretzels warm with dip. Yield: 16 pretzels.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Beaded Binky Clips
What you need:
- beads
- beading wire
- crimp beads
- metal clips (found at fabric store)
- jump rings
- clasps
I started out with a long piece of wire. I put about 15 glass sead beads towards the middle of the wire. Then I looped the metal clip on where the seed beads are. Next you'll want to make sure your two ends of the wire are even, and string on a crimp bead through BOTH wires. I thought doubling up the wire would make it more durable! Press your crimp bead down.
I started out with a long piece of wire. I put about 15 glass sead beads towards the middle of the wire. Then I looped the metal clip on where the seed beads are. Next you'll want to make sure your two ends of the wire are even, and string on a crimp bead through BOTH wires. I thought doubling up the wire would make it more durable! Press your crimp bead down.
Next, string your pattern along the double wire. This is the fun part!
When I got to the end of my pattern, I put a little bling bead there - personal preference of course! I like the idea of having something a little extra next to where the binky is going to be clipped.
String on a crimp bead, followed by a jump ring. Loop your wire around the jump ring and back through the crimp bead to secure it in place. Press your crimp bead down.
String more seed beads after your jump ring. I don't know how many I did, but you can kind of measure how big you want your loop to be as you go.
When you get to the end, string on a crimp bead and then a clasp. I like lobster clasps myself. Pull your wire back through your crimp bead to secure your clasp in place. Press down on your crimp bead.
Loop your binky where the seed beads are, and attach the clasp to the jump ring.
Done!
I think they turned out pretty cute! Now I want to make a whole bunch more for our new baby girl! It's okay if she has multiple colors....right????
Website Reference
Website Reference
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Mango Salsa
When you make your own salsa, you definitely control the ingredients. Here is my favorite mango salsa recipe (sweet and spicy – a huge crowd pleaser) absolutely delicious on grilled fish.
1 ripe mango, diced (1 1/2 cups)
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons rice vinegar (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and allow it to sit for about fifteen minutes and then give a quick stir before serving.
1 ripe mango, diced (1 1/2 cups)
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons rice vinegar (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and allow it to sit for about fifteen minutes and then give a quick stir before serving.
Friday, April 29, 2011
Diaper Cake
Step 1. Ingredients for a diaper cake:
You can get all of these at a local baby supplies store. (You may need to go to a craft store for the ribbon)
• 60 diapers (depends on how big you make it) You can use either disposable or cloth - better find out what the expectant mother would like. You can use either white or patterned diapers.• Ribbon, 1/2 or 1 inch wide, patterned to fit the baby shower theme. Pink, blue, or yellow are good choices.• Ribbon, 1/4 inch to tie rolled diapers with• 36-60 small rubber bands (depending on how you want to "build" the cake• 6 large rubber bands• One 8-oz baby bottle or one large bottle of baby lotion• One 4-oz baby bottle• A cardboard or plastic cake platter• Cake decorations - for example, baby confetti, baby sock roses, artificial roses, etc.• Baby items - Pacifiers, bottles, lotion, bibs, receiving blankets, miniature stuffed animals, baby towel, onesie, wash cloths, baby hygiene products, toys, etc.
Step 2. Here we go: Let's build this cake one tier at a time.
For the first tier, you will need about 35 newborn or stage 1 diapers. Unfold 17 of them and, one at a time, roll them up tight, starting from the front of the diaper and rolling it to the back. The tighter the better. Place a rubber band around the center after you roll each diaper up to hold it tight. These are the inner diapers for the cake.Take the cake platter and place the 8-oz baby bottle or large bottle of baby lotion in the center. Then place about 5-6 diapers around the bottle and put a large rubberband around the entire ring of diapers.
The picture below is what your cake will look like at this point:
Next, form a 2nd ring with the remaining 11-12 diapers by placing them around the 1st ring of diapers. Complete it by placing a large rubberband around the 2nd ring.
Now for the final ring of diapers for the 1st tier: Take 18-20 diapers, unfold each one, roll them up tight like before, but instead of a rubber band around each one, tie a thin, 1/4 inch piece of ribbon around the middle around each one. Then place them around the second ring to form a 3rd ring. Now take a large, 1/2 to 1 inch wide ribbon and tie it around the entire tier to hold them all together in a circle shape.
(Note, you could use just rubberbands around each diaper for the 3rd ring if you have opaque ribbon to hold the 3rd ring together. The important part is that no rubberbands are showing when you are done.)
All right! you have made the 1st tier. Here is what it should look like:
Step 3. The second tier is made much the same way, only instead of 3 rings, you will only make 2 rings of diapers. Just like the 1st tier, the inside ring will need about 5-6 diapers. Part of the 8-oz bottle will be sticking out of the 1st tier, so place your 5-6 diapers around it to form the 1st ring of the 2nd tier. The 2nd ring will need 11-12 diapers. Place a ribbon around each one of those 2nd ring diapers and hold them all together in a circle with the 1/2 to 1 inch wide ribbon, just like before.
Here is what the finished 2nd tier will look like:
Step 4. Third tier is easy!It is probably easiest to assemble this tier on a table and then place it on the rest of the cake after it is assembled. So, take a 4-oz bottle and place it on the table.Then take 5-6 diapers and roll them up like before and tie them with the thin ribbon.Then place them around the 4 -oz baby bottle and tie your wide ribbon around it to hold it together tightly in it's shape. Take the top tier and place it on the top.
Drum roll, please! And now for the finished product...
You can get all of these at a local baby supplies store. (You may need to go to a craft store for the ribbon)
• 60 diapers (depends on how big you make it) You can use either disposable or cloth - better find out what the expectant mother would like. You can use either white or patterned diapers.• Ribbon, 1/2 or 1 inch wide, patterned to fit the baby shower theme. Pink, blue, or yellow are good choices.• Ribbon, 1/4 inch to tie rolled diapers with• 36-60 small rubber bands (depending on how you want to "build" the cake• 6 large rubber bands• One 8-oz baby bottle or one large bottle of baby lotion• One 4-oz baby bottle• A cardboard or plastic cake platter• Cake decorations - for example, baby confetti, baby sock roses, artificial roses, etc.• Baby items - Pacifiers, bottles, lotion, bibs, receiving blankets, miniature stuffed animals, baby towel, onesie, wash cloths, baby hygiene products, toys, etc.
Step 2. Here we go: Let's build this cake one tier at a time.
For the first tier, you will need about 35 newborn or stage 1 diapers. Unfold 17 of them and, one at a time, roll them up tight, starting from the front of the diaper and rolling it to the back. The tighter the better. Place a rubber band around the center after you roll each diaper up to hold it tight. These are the inner diapers for the cake.Take the cake platter and place the 8-oz baby bottle or large bottle of baby lotion in the center. Then place about 5-6 diapers around the bottle and put a large rubberband around the entire ring of diapers.
The picture below is what your cake will look like at this point:
Next, form a 2nd ring with the remaining 11-12 diapers by placing them around the 1st ring of diapers. Complete it by placing a large rubberband around the 2nd ring.
Now for the final ring of diapers for the 1st tier: Take 18-20 diapers, unfold each one, roll them up tight like before, but instead of a rubber band around each one, tie a thin, 1/4 inch piece of ribbon around the middle around each one. Then place them around the second ring to form a 3rd ring. Now take a large, 1/2 to 1 inch wide ribbon and tie it around the entire tier to hold them all together in a circle shape.
(Note, you could use just rubberbands around each diaper for the 3rd ring if you have opaque ribbon to hold the 3rd ring together. The important part is that no rubberbands are showing when you are done.)
All right! you have made the 1st tier. Here is what it should look like:
Step 3. The second tier is made much the same way, only instead of 3 rings, you will only make 2 rings of diapers. Just like the 1st tier, the inside ring will need about 5-6 diapers. Part of the 8-oz bottle will be sticking out of the 1st tier, so place your 5-6 diapers around it to form the 1st ring of the 2nd tier. The 2nd ring will need 11-12 diapers. Place a ribbon around each one of those 2nd ring diapers and hold them all together in a circle with the 1/2 to 1 inch wide ribbon, just like before.
Here is what the finished 2nd tier will look like:
Step 4. Third tier is easy!It is probably easiest to assemble this tier on a table and then place it on the rest of the cake after it is assembled. So, take a 4-oz bottle and place it on the table.Then take 5-6 diapers and roll them up like before and tie them with the thin ribbon.Then place them around the 4 -oz baby bottle and tie your wide ribbon around it to hold it together tightly in it's shape. Take the top tier and place it on the top.
Drum roll, please! And now for the finished product...
Toy Blocks
Materials needed to make baby toys baby blocks:
fabric (about 1/4 yard each)
matching threadsewing needles
pillow fill
(optional) bells, rattles, or crinkle plastic
Start by making yourself a pattern template to cut your fabric with, or print the one I provided for you. To make your own pattern all you need is a to cut a piece of paper or card board into a 5" by 5" square.
Cut around this square or trace the square onto your fabric using a sewing pencil and then cut the fabric from there. You will need to cut out six 5" squares to form one baby block. You can use the same fabric for all sides of the block, but I recommend cutting three sets of two from different fabrics. If you choose to make baby blocks that are all different colors and patterns a good plan is to buy 3 different matching fabrics, but buy enough to make three to six blocks or the project will not come out right.
If you look to the diagram to the below, you will see how I placed the different patterns away from each other. When the baby blocks are sewn together each square of identical fabric will be directly opposite from each other.
The easiest way to sew them together is to start by sewing pieces B and D to fabric square A. Then sew on C, E, and F. Once you have this part down on comes the trickier part, but don't worry it is still easy.
Move on to sew together squares B and C. Place the seams together so that they are facing in towards each other and sew away. Keep going by sewing together C and D. Next is B and E, D and E, and so on... You get the picture.
fabric (about 1/4 yard each)
matching threadsewing needles
pillow fill
(optional) bells, rattles, or crinkle plastic
Start by making yourself a pattern template to cut your fabric with, or print the one I provided for you. To make your own pattern all you need is a to cut a piece of paper or card board into a 5" by 5" square.
Cut around this square or trace the square onto your fabric using a sewing pencil and then cut the fabric from there. You will need to cut out six 5" squares to form one baby block. You can use the same fabric for all sides of the block, but I recommend cutting three sets of two from different fabrics. If you choose to make baby blocks that are all different colors and patterns a good plan is to buy 3 different matching fabrics, but buy enough to make three to six blocks or the project will not come out right.
If you look to the diagram to the below, you will see how I placed the different patterns away from each other. When the baby blocks are sewn together each square of identical fabric will be directly opposite from each other.
The easiest way to sew them together is to start by sewing pieces B and D to fabric square A. Then sew on C, E, and F. Once you have this part down on comes the trickier part, but don't worry it is still easy.
Move on to sew together squares B and C. Place the seams together so that they are facing in towards each other and sew away. Keep going by sewing together C and D. Next is B and E, D and E, and so on... You get the picture.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Tutu for Girls
This is the one I made~ Make sure you scrunch your tulle together really well to have a really full tutu! I use about 20 yards of tulle in each of mine.
To measure your waist, make sure you measure your model and then take off about 2-3 inches of elastic. I know that sounds drastic, but as you put on the tulle and tighten it, it stretches the elastic out and makes it bigger..so if you don’t take down the waist size before, your waist will end up really big and you will be taking it half apart. Trust me, I did it twice.
To measure your waist, make sure you measure your model and then take off about 2-3 inches of elastic. I know that sounds drastic, but as you put on the tulle and tighten it, it stretches the elastic out and makes it bigger..so if you don’t take down the waist size before, your waist will end up really big and you will be taking it half apart. Trust me, I did it twice.
On elastic size, that’s preference. I find with older girls, the 1 inch is a good size, but for the babies, you may want something less wide like a 3/4th inch elastic. They cost about $1.20 at Walmart.
To add to these instructions since it isn’t listed in a lot of places, 6 inch tulle works really well, not the big tulle you find on the bolts. I use the big tulle on the bolts, so I end up having to cut in a lot of ways to get it to be not to thick. If you go that route, you generally have to cut the length and width.
Premeasure your tulle out and have it all ready so you can basically go from start to finish. A general rule is that it should be about 22-24 inches in length so when you fold it in half, it hangs long enough. If you measure out 24 inches, it will be 12 inches in length. So basically half your length to determine how long the skirt is. I do all the trimming at the end so I dont worry so much.
Where you did the sewing will be a little hard to close the last few pieces of tulle over the top. I always put an embellishment in that area to cover up any discrepancy.
TIP: Instead of Elastic, you can use big satin ribbon and the just tie in a bow. Its easy removal…but that’s half the problem…your child, especially if you have a young one, can remove it. Elastic is a lot more snug.
Some Halloween Ideas for Tutus:
- Red Tulle with Black Puff Balls glued on Make a LadyBug
- Orange, Purple, and Black tulle for a witch
- Yellow, Orange, White for Candy Corn
- Hot Pink and Lime Green for Strawberry Shortcake
- White and Light Pink for a “50′s” Look
- Purple and Light green for a Fairy
- Yellow and Black for a Bumble Bee
Make sure you add some embellishments like sparkles or pom poms when your done! I added flowers to mine!
Monday, April 25, 2011
Silk Tie Easter Eggs
1. Take raw eggs and wrap them in 100% silk.
2. Using an old pillow case or sheet wrap the eggs one more time.
2. Using an old pillow case or sheet wrap the eggs one more time.
We used twist ties but elastics or string would work too.
3. Boil eggs in any type of no-alluminum pot along with 1/4 cup vinegar. Once the water comes to a boil, reduce heat and let them do there thing for 20-25 minutes.
* We hollowed out some eggs by poking a small hole in each end and blowing out the insides before we dyed them and it worked well. The only problem is that the hollow eggs don’t sink in the water so we had to put a heavy lid to hold them under.
4. Unwrap! This is the best part. I was so thrilled at how they turned out.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Easter Story With Eggs
1. Each egg will have objects that represent an event that happened during the last few days of Jesus Christ's life inside along with a scripture to read. You can either have the entire scripture on a slip of paper or just the scripture reference. There are several ways that you can tell the Easter story with Easter eggs. You can open one egg a days and talk about it, like an advent calendar. You can hide the eggs along with your other Easter eggs and then use them to tell the story before the kids dig into their candy. You can also just have them in a basket and pull them out one by one to tell the Easter story. Use a permanent marker or stickers to number the eggs.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Child Hooded Towel
1. Each hoodie towel requires 1 big towel and 2 washcloths (washcloths do make it really big. Use hand towel and cut it in half. Much better). You could buy new or use old ones if you have lots of extra towels and washcloths (hand towels).
2. Pin the two washcloths together on 2 adjoining sides (like an “L”).
3. Use your sewing machine to sew the washcloths
together. I did this twice to have extra strength. I used a plain old zig-zag stitch.
4. Take the big towel and determine which side you want as the inside of the towel and lay that face down of the floor.
5. Measure and find the center of the big towel. Mark this with a pin.
6. Take the sewn together washcloths and fold it into a triangle so the 2 sewn sides are in the middle, touching, like below.
7. Use the pin in the middle of your big towel to determine placement and pin the closest side of the washcloths onto the big towel.
8. Carefully sew the washcloth piece onto the big towel, making sure that the outer parts of the hood do not get attached by accident. I also did this twice over for extra strength.
9. Try on your toddler or give as a gift!
Changing Pad and Wipes Holder
Materials
1/2 yard of chenille
1 yard coordinating cotton fabric
1 yard ribbon
Fray Check
Cut chenille to 22"x18".
Cut coordinating top fabric to the same size.
Cut chenille to 22"x18".
Cut coordinating top fabric to the same size.
To make the pocket: cut out a 9" x 17" piece of the coordinating fabric.
You will be placing the pocket on the lower left hand side, so hem the top and right sides of the pocket.
Attach to the top and secure with pins.
Stitch along the right hand edge, right over the exposed hem.
Now here is the tricky part. Make a light mark with a fabric pencil 4 1/2 inches from the right side in. You need to do this at the top and bottom of the pocket. This is going to be a smaller pocket for a sippy cup or bottle. Sew a straight line, using your marks as a guide. Backstitch at the top for extra strength.
Place ribbon on the left hand side, half way down the pocket. This is about 4 1/2 " up from the left bottom corner. Stitch in place. Seal the ends with a little Fray Check. This makes it so the ribbon won't unravel in the wash.
Pin right sides together, making sure that the loose ends of the ribbon are not going to be attached where they shouldn't.
Stitch along the right hand edge, right over the exposed hem.
Now here is the tricky part. Make a light mark with a fabric pencil 4 1/2 inches from the right side in. You need to do this at the top and bottom of the pocket. This is going to be a smaller pocket for a sippy cup or bottle. Sew a straight line, using your marks as a guide. Backstitch at the top for extra strength.
Place ribbon on the left hand side, half way down the pocket. This is about 4 1/2 " up from the left bottom corner. Stitch in place. Seal the ends with a little Fray Check. This makes it so the ribbon won't unravel in the wash.
Pin right sides together, making sure that the loose ends of the ribbon are not going to be attached where they shouldn't.
Carefully sew around the edges. This can be a little tricky because the chenille tends to stretch. I like to pick a spot in the middle of a side, and sew one direction. Go back to the center and sew the opposite direction on the same side. This seems to create and even amount of tension.
Leave a three inch gap somewhere to turn it inside out.
Leave a three inch gap somewhere to turn it inside out.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Mini Cheesecake Recipe
12 servings
Prep time is 20 minutes + chilling
Bake time is 15 minutes + cooling
Ingredients:
1 c. vanilla wafer crumbs
3 Tbsp butter, melted
1 package (8 oz) cream cheese, softened
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp lemon juice
1/3 c. sugar
1 egg
Topping:
(use pie filling)
1 lb. pitted canned or frozen tart red cherries
1/2 c. sugar
2 Tbsp cornstarch
Red food coloring, optional
Directions
Prep time is 20 minutes + chilling
Bake time is 15 minutes + cooling
Ingredients:
1 c. vanilla wafer crumbs
3 Tbsp butter, melted
1 package (8 oz) cream cheese, softened
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp lemon juice
1/3 c. sugar
1 egg
Topping:
(use pie filling)
1 lb. pitted canned or frozen tart red cherries
1/2 c. sugar
2 Tbsp cornstarch
Red food coloring, optional
Directions
- In a bowl, combine crumbs and butter. Press gently onto the bottom of 12 paper-lined muffin cups. In a bowl, combine cream cheese, vanilla, lemon juice, sugar and egg; beat until smooth. Spoon into crusts. Bake at 375° for 12-15 minutes or until set. Cool completely.
- Drain cherries, reserving 1/2 cup juice in a saucepan; discard remaining juice. To juice, add cherries, sugar, cornstarch and food coloring if desired. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally; boil for 1 minute. Cool; spoon over cheese cakes. Chill for at least 2 hours.
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Nursing Cover
This lightweight cover gives you privacy during nursing while a boned neckline allows eye contact between you and your baby. The wide neck strap is very comfortable and trimmed to fit perfectly avoiding the need for D rings or velcro that can snag clothes and cause injury. The unique cutting and construction utilizes all of a ¾ yard cut of fabric and can be completed in 30 minutes or less!
Cutting Instructions
Trim each cut edge to make them straight with the grain. An easy way to straighten the edge is to take a snip through the selvage and rip it. Cotton quilting fabrics always tear straight with the grain.
Trim off the selvage edges (selvages wash differently and will make your hem wonky if you leave it on.)
Cut a 6 inch by ¾ yard width off one selvage side of the fabric. Save this piece for the neck strap.
Sewing Instructions
Making the neck strap:
Press the 6 inch strip in half lengthwise (making a 3 inch wide strip.)
Open out and press the raw edges to the center.
Press in half again. Your strip should now be 4 thicknesses and 1 ½ inches wide.
Stitch close to the edge down each side of the strap. Set aside.
Hemming the Body
On the bottom 3 sides of the cover, press under ¼ of an inch twice. Top stitch close to the edge.
On the top side press under ¼ of an inch and then ½ an inch.
Find the center and pin 6 inches on either side of the center.
Pin the neck strap piece in place tucking the raw edges under the hem. The outside edge of the strap should be on the pin. Try it on to adjust length of the neck strap. You want it long enough to get it over your head easily, but short enough that you are covered while nursing.
Top stitch the 12 inch section close to the edge, double stitching over the neck strap sections. Stitch across one end near the strap as a stop line for the boning.
Adding the Boning
There are many different types of boning available. The boning used for this project is made from polypropylene and sold by the yard covered in white cotton casing. This boning has a natural curve in it from being coiled on the spool that can be ironed straight for building corsets. The curve is perfect for this project so we will leave it as it is. You can slip the plastic boning from the casing it came from or stitch the casing ends shut for this project.
Slide the 12 inch piece of boning into the casing just made making sure the natural curve will hold the fabric away from you when you have it on. Stitch on the open side of the boning to hold it in place.
Finish hemming both sides of the top of the cover. All done!
Website Reference
Cutting Instructions
Trim each cut edge to make them straight with the grain. An easy way to straighten the edge is to take a snip through the selvage and rip it. Cotton quilting fabrics always tear straight with the grain.
Trim off the selvage edges (selvages wash differently and will make your hem wonky if you leave it on.)
Cut a 6 inch by ¾ yard width off one selvage side of the fabric. Save this piece for the neck strap.
Sewing Instructions
Making the neck strap:
Press the 6 inch strip in half lengthwise (making a 3 inch wide strip.)
Open out and press the raw edges to the center.
Press in half again. Your strip should now be 4 thicknesses and 1 ½ inches wide.
Stitch close to the edge down each side of the strap. Set aside.
Hemming the Body
On the bottom 3 sides of the cover, press under ¼ of an inch twice. Top stitch close to the edge.
On the top side press under ¼ of an inch and then ½ an inch.
Find the center and pin 6 inches on either side of the center.
Pin the neck strap piece in place tucking the raw edges under the hem. The outside edge of the strap should be on the pin. Try it on to adjust length of the neck strap. You want it long enough to get it over your head easily, but short enough that you are covered while nursing.
Top stitch the 12 inch section close to the edge, double stitching over the neck strap sections. Stitch across one end near the strap as a stop line for the boning.
Adding the Boning
There are many different types of boning available. The boning used for this project is made from polypropylene and sold by the yard covered in white cotton casing. This boning has a natural curve in it from being coiled on the spool that can be ironed straight for building corsets. The curve is perfect for this project so we will leave it as it is. You can slip the plastic boning from the casing it came from or stitch the casing ends shut for this project.
Slide the 12 inch piece of boning into the casing just made making sure the natural curve will hold the fabric away from you when you have it on. Stitch on the open side of the boning to hold it in place.
Finish hemming both sides of the top of the cover. All done!
Website Reference
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Flower Hair Clips
The hair clip:
Depending on the size of your clip, measure out the amount of ribbon you’ll need to cover both the inside and outside of the clip. For the clips I used, I needed just under 7 inches…
Now, go grab your glue gun, and let’s get started!
I use the hot setting on my glue gun. The lower temperature glue won’t work well, so make sure it’s hot…
Begin by gluing the ribbon to the lower inside portion of the clip. Pinch the clip open while gluing, and be careful to keep the ribbon straight!
Then, add some more glue to the back of the ribbon, and wrap it around to the bottom side of the clip. Make a nice crease at the point of the clip.
Add some hot glue on the inside of the clasp, and glue ribbon.
Then, add hot glue to the remaining amount of ribbon. Pinch clasp, and wrap all the way around and under. Again, make a nice crease at the point.
It should look a little something like this…
The flower:
First… remove flower from stem, then remove all plastic parts from the front, back, and check between the petals, too…
Now… add a smidge or little circle of hot glue in between each layer of petals, to glue the layers of flower petals together…
Once the glue has dried, glue on a pretty jewel or button to the center…
Now, go grab your clip, and add some hot glue onto the top of the clip…
Now, attach the bottom of the flower to the glue on the top of the clip…
Have fun experimenting with different colors, layering flower petal colors, and jazzing them up with pretty jewels and funky buttons…
You can also vary the size of the flowers! And… don’t forget ~ these are interchangeable, so you can attach different flowers to different headbands…
Depending on the size of your clip, measure out the amount of ribbon you’ll need to cover both the inside and outside of the clip. For the clips I used, I needed just under 7 inches…
Now, go grab your glue gun, and let’s get started!
I use the hot setting on my glue gun. The lower temperature glue won’t work well, so make sure it’s hot…
Begin by gluing the ribbon to the lower inside portion of the clip. Pinch the clip open while gluing, and be careful to keep the ribbon straight!
Then, add some more glue to the back of the ribbon, and wrap it around to the bottom side of the clip. Make a nice crease at the point of the clip.
Add some hot glue on the inside of the clasp, and glue ribbon.
Then, add hot glue to the remaining amount of ribbon. Pinch clasp, and wrap all the way around and under. Again, make a nice crease at the point.
It should look a little something like this…
The flower:
First… remove flower from stem, then remove all plastic parts from the front, back, and check between the petals, too…
Now… add a smidge or little circle of hot glue in between each layer of petals, to glue the layers of flower petals together…
Once the glue has dried, glue on a pretty jewel or button to the center…
Now, go grab your clip, and add some hot glue onto the top of the clip…
Now, attach the bottom of the flower to the glue on the top of the clip…
Have fun experimenting with different colors, layering flower petal colors, and jazzing them up with pretty jewels and funky buttons…
You can also vary the size of the flowers! And… don’t forget ~ these are interchangeable, so you can attach different flowers to different headbands…
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Car Seat Canopy
1. Choose fabrics that coordinate or contrast. Pick any style of fabric, and the colors or patterns don't necessarily have to match the car seat itself. You may choose a lightweight fleece for a colder area, or a more water-repellent material for a rainy climate. Cotton is the most versatile material, as well as the most breathable.
2. Measure the car seat to determine how much fabric will be needed, and to ensure that the edges of the canopy will not drag the ground. Often one yard is enough, but by measuring from the handle of the car seat to a couple inches from the bottom of the seat, you will keep your handiwork looking neat and clean.
3. Cut two 2 1/2-inch strips from each fabric's longest side to use for the connecting straps. These will prevent the canopy from slipping off the car seat. Set this material aside for use later.
4. Lay the fabrics together, one on top the other. Face them with the wrong sides to
gether before folding them in half lengthwise, so when you cut, everything is even on both pieces of fabric. Put a mixing bowl or a large dinner plate on the corners to trace perfectly rounded corners.
5. Cut a rectangle (with rounded corners) to measure 40 by 34 inches. Unfold the pieces and lay them with the right sides of the fabric together. Pin everything together with straight pins.
2. Measure the car seat to determine how much fabric will be needed, and to ensure that the edges of the canopy will not drag the ground. Often one yard is enough, but by measuring from the handle of the car seat to a couple inches from the bottom of the seat, you will keep your handiwork looking neat and clean.
3. Cut two 2 1/2-inch strips from each fabric's longest side to use for the connecting straps. These will prevent the canopy from slipping off the car seat. Set this material aside for use later.
4. Lay the fabrics together, one on top the other. Face them with the wrong sides to
gether before folding them in half lengthwise, so when you cut, everything is even on both pieces of fabric. Put a mixing bowl or a large dinner plate on the corners to trace perfectly rounded corners.
5. Cut a rectangle (with rounded corners) to measure 40 by 34 inches. Unfold the pieces and lay them with the right sides of the fabric together. Pin everything together with straight pins.
If you wanted to add a ribbon trim or any kind of border, you would pin the border between the two fabrics in this step.
6. Stitch the fabrics together, either by hand or with a sewing machine. Leave between 1/4- and 1/2-inch seam allowance and remember to only stitch three sides together so that you can turn the fabrics with their right sides facing out for a reversible canopy.
7. Trim the corners. At this point, press the canopy to help it lay flat before you add the straps. Top stitch the fabric all the way around, paying special attention to the side that was not sewn shut.
8. Cut four straps out of the material you set aside. The straps should be around 2 1/2 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches long. As you did with the canopy itself, face the wrong sides of the fabric together and stitch along three sides. Turn the material right-side out and stitch the remaining side together. Iron the fabric flat before top stitching the last side together. Attach the hook-and-loop fastener to the straps of fabric.
9. Pin the straps in place on the canopy before stitching them. After you've positioned them properly and made sure the canopy will hang the way you intend, do the same to the straps on the reverse side of the fabric. Pin these straps in place as well.
10. Sew through both sets of straps, preferably with a square or rectangle with a stitched "X." This reinforces the straps' connection to the canopy and will make it less likely to rip. At this point you can decide to embellish the straps with bows or buttons, or leave as is.
Baby Carrier
This is a baby sling inspired by the K'tan.
1. Using a soft measuring tape, measure from the tip of your shoulder to your side just under your ribs (your waist). Double this measurement and add 2" for a seam and 2" for shrinkage (total of 4"). This is how much fabric to buy.
2. Go to Joanns/Hobby Lobby and buy a stretchy fabric of your choice. Don't go for the 100% polyester unless you want to be really hot really fast. Also, don't buy something that's super stretchy. You want almost no stretch along the LENGTH and a moderate amount of stretch across the fabric. A good pick is the jersey knit interlock. Find something that is 60" across too. This will give you enough for the two rings and support sash
3. Take fabric home, prewash and then cut into 3-20" pieces along the length. You should end up with three pieces of fabric 20" wide (stretchy) and your measurement from #1 long (non-stretchy).
4. Take one piece and sew it together along the short ends with a french seam. Repeat with the second piece. The loops are done (unless you want to hem the sides, but you don't have to).
5. Now the support sash. This uses the third piece. It isn't going to be long enough to tie in the back, so you need to either sew on some fabric to the ends to extend it enough to tie or do what I did: buy two rings like you would use for a ring sling and sew them onto one end (just like for a ring sling). You use it just like normal except that instead of tying in the back, you thread the free end into the rings like a ring sling.
6. Download the instructions and start wrapping.
1. Using a soft measuring tape, measure from the tip of your shoulder to your side just under your ribs (your waist). Double this measurement and add 2" for a seam and 2" for shrinkage (total of 4"). This is how much fabric to buy.
2. Go to Joanns/Hobby Lobby and buy a stretchy fabric of your choice. Don't go for the 100% polyester unless you want to be really hot really fast. Also, don't buy something that's super stretchy. You want almost no stretch along the LENGTH and a moderate amount of stretch across the fabric. A good pick is the jersey knit interlock. Find something that is 60" across too. This will give you enough for the two rings and support sash
3. Take fabric home, prewash and then cut into 3-20" pieces along the length. You should end up with three pieces of fabric 20" wide (stretchy) and your measurement from #1 long (non-stretchy).
4. Take one piece and sew it together along the short ends with a french seam. Repeat with the second piece. The loops are done (unless you want to hem the sides, but you don't have to).
5. Now the support sash. This uses the third piece. It isn't going to be long enough to tie in the back, so you need to either sew on some fabric to the ends to extend it enough to tie or do what I did: buy two rings like you would use for a ring sling and sew them onto one end (just like for a ring sling). You use it just like normal except that instead of tying in the back, you thread the free end into the rings like a ring sling.
6. Download the instructions and start wrapping.
Baby Leg Warmers
1. Cut the feet off the bottoms
2. Turn them inside out and fold up the bottoms
3. Stitch around them and turn right side out
Website
2. Turn them inside out and fold up the bottoms
3. Stitch around them and turn right side out
Website
OR
STEP 1: First cut the socks into sections as pictured below. You will toss the heel & toe scraps, but keep the bottom of the foot. Note: for this tutorial I am working with crew socks, but the process is the same as with tube socks.
STEP 2: Take the section remaining from the foot & you want to fold it inside of itself as pictured below. You should have the nice side of the sock on the outside & inside with a fold on one end & both raw edges on the other.
STEP 3: Stick the long section of the sock inside your newly created tube. This would give you 3 raw edges on the side we are going to sew, the other side will have the folded edge & the finished edge that was originally the top of the sock. If you have a pattern such as stripes or argyle as I used you may try to get them to line up. Once you are happy with the positioning pin together. Make sure to pin just 3 layers, not all 6 or you won’t have a hole to stick your little ones leg through when you are finished.
STEP 4: Time to Sew! Set the stitch length on your sewing machine to 4 (longest stitch), this will allow the most stretch. If the long straight stitch just doesn’t stretch enough for you can also us a narrow zig zag stitch… width at 2 & length at 3. You want to stretch the pinned side over the arm of your sewing machine & sew a straight stitch all the way around. If you can’t get it to stretch over then you can use what ever method you use to sew circles normally, or you can simply stitch it together with a needle & thread the old fashion way.
STEP 5 (OPTIONAL): Your finished seam should look similar to this. For a cleaner more professional look you can use pinking sheers, a zigzag stitch, or serge the seam for extra strength & to prevent unraveling.
Then simply fold the trim down (putting the seam inside) & TADA… a baby & toddler leg warmer simply make another one & test them out on the nearest happy child!
Here are pictures for this website.
STEP 2: Take the section remaining from the foot & you want to fold it inside of itself as pictured below. You should have the nice side of the sock on the outside & inside with a fold on one end & both raw edges on the other.
STEP 3: Stick the long section of the sock inside your newly created tube. This would give you 3 raw edges on the side we are going to sew, the other side will have the folded edge & the finished edge that was originally the top of the sock. If you have a pattern such as stripes or argyle as I used you may try to get them to line up. Once you are happy with the positioning pin together. Make sure to pin just 3 layers, not all 6 or you won’t have a hole to stick your little ones leg through when you are finished.
STEP 4: Time to Sew! Set the stitch length on your sewing machine to 4 (longest stitch), this will allow the most stretch. If the long straight stitch just doesn’t stretch enough for you can also us a narrow zig zag stitch… width at 2 & length at 3. You want to stretch the pinned side over the arm of your sewing machine & sew a straight stitch all the way around. If you can’t get it to stretch over then you can use what ever method you use to sew circles normally, or you can simply stitch it together with a needle & thread the old fashion way.
STEP 5 (OPTIONAL): Your finished seam should look similar to this. For a cleaner more professional look you can use pinking sheers, a zigzag stitch, or serge the seam for extra strength & to prevent unraveling.
Then simply fold the trim down (putting the seam inside) & TADA… a baby & toddler leg warmer simply make another one & test them out on the nearest happy child!
Here are pictures for this website.
French Seam
Step 1
Make note of the of the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of the fabric you are using. The nature of a French seam's construction requires that you be aware of the difference during construction so that they are properly oriented in each step.
Step 2
With the right sides facing out, pin material together, pinning entire length of edge where the French seam will be.
Step 3
Stitch a 1/4" seam allowance along the entire length of the edge pinned in Step 2. Remove pins after the seam allowance has been sewn. Note: contrasting thread shown in photo used for clarity only.
Step 4
Cut seam allowance (sewn in Step 3) to within 1/8" of stitches. Although you may use pinking shears, they are not required. The cut edges will be protected (and hidden) by the completed French seam.
Step 5
Unfold with the right sides up. Press entire length of trimmed seam allowance, pressing both edges flat and to one common side. DO NOT press seam open! Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric.
Step 6
Fold material along newly created seam with wrong sides out.
Step 7
Press entire length of seam flat at fold on wrong side. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric.
Step 8
With wrong sides out, pin folded material together, pinning entire length of pressed seam created in Step 7.
Step 9
Stitch a 3/8" seam allowance along the entire length of the edge pinned in Step 8. Remove pins after the seam allowance has been sewn. Note: contrasting thread shown in photo used for clarity only.
Step 10
Unfold with the wrong sides up. Press entire length of seam flat to one side. Be sure to use a setting on your iron that will not damage the fabric.
Step 11
Give yourself a pat on the back. Note that the right side of the seam is neat and flat. On the wrong side, the cut (or pinked) edges of the seam created in step 4 are now concealed. You're done!
For pictures, refer to this website.
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