Wrong Side of Fabric

Inspect the packaging

How the fabric is wrapped around the bolt is generally indicative of which side is the right side. Cottons and linens are wrapped on bolts or folded with the right sides out. Wools are folded with the right sides facing in. Delicate fabrics are generally wrapped with the wrong sides out to protect the right sides. When wrapped around a tube the right side generally faces in.

Inspect the selvage

Fabric is rolled through various processes on rollers with pins which stick up to hold it in place. After the fabric is removed from the rollers holes are left in the selvage. When the fabric is placed on the rollers there are prongs which poke through. Because the right side up for printing and finishing applications, the prongs first go through the wrong side and come out through the right side. The prongs go in the wrong side smoothly and punch out the right side of the fabric, leaving a rough hole on the right side. So the right side is the side with the rough holes. However, if you wash the fabric this may no longer be visible. Generally the selvages appear less finished on the wrongs sides and are smoother on the right side. Inspect the selvages for nubs, slubs, or irregularities, and for smoothness.

Inspect the fabric

The right side of fabric is usual more resistant to abrasion and dirt. On printed fabric, the print is usually bolder and clearer. Smooth fabrics are softer and/or shinier on the right side. Textured fabrics are more textured on the right side. On the right side slubs generally stand out more, ribs stand out more or are only visible on the right side, twills are more distinct. The fabrics will generally have small irregularities on the wrong side. Fabric with special finishes usually only have the finish on the right side. A finish can usually be identified through touch or visual inspection. Fancy weaves are smoother on the right side. The wrong side may have loose or uneven floats. The cut edges of knits will generally roll towards the right side when stretched in the direction with the most stretch.